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February 28th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 218
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

OK can we just call it like it really is. What's that? Rain. Or more specifically, rain in the dead of winter. Rain in the winter is just liquid snow. And honestly? If the temps drop...that rain becomes more dangerous than snow. We're talking ice. Right now the air temps are favorable for the rain to continue as is. A slushy mushy wet mess.

(Above) This is a photo I shot of my commute this morning. Lovely day huh?

(Above) This is another self portrait of a pre-surf session. Not so lovely I know.

The surf was head high out there. Sorry Buck...but your "waist high at best" call went out the window. Trust me was ALL of head high out there. I know, I was the ONLY one out. I think I'm a pretty good judge of wave size at this point. My guess is tomorrow should be good. Today was messy.

But I got a nice clean faced wave and saluted Molly, and rode that sucker all the way to the beach. Oh hell yea it was a "One and Done!" Be one thing if I hadn't surfed in a while. I would of stayed out longer. If it's clean and green tomorrow. I'll hang.

(Above) And of course the post surf session self portrait. So that's it for February. So long February and your 28 Days. What's the saying for March...? "Coming in Like a Lion..."
Oh boy...I can hardly wait.

That's 218, only 147 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 27th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 217
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

It's safe to say, that I am, at this particular point in my Surf Campaign, sooooo over the "Surfing In the Snow" Novelty. I am over it. Though today was not that bad. It only took me 2.5 hours to blow the dusting out of my driveways. That dusting was a solid 6-8". A dusting??? WTF???? OK so it was powder. Still...come on.

How many snow storms does that make? Can someone find that out for me when this is over? I'm thinking at least a dozen. Maybe more. And I'm talking about ALL snow storms and dustings. Freaking dusting my ass.

But hey I got to surf alone at a popular point break. So things were not that bad. I caught my first wave and saluted Lil Miss Molly and then I went back out for another half a dozen more. Not bad.

Self portrait before I went out. The Surf Shaka is the universal gesture that all is well.

After my session. Black on white.

Today would of been my late dog's birthday. He would of been 14. Happy Birthday Scout. I put his old collar on our new pup Patch. He's trying to chew it off as I write this. Scout would of done the same at his age.

Hey I heard it's going to snow tomorrow! Alright. We could sure use it.

That's 217, only 148 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 26th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 216
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

It's funny what a sunny, chest high, clean and green, day of waves can do for your soul. I just realized that it's been 23 days since I rode my short board. Yikes. That really was a flat spell. But that all changed today. Including my bad mood from yesterday. I guess it's true. Surfing really does Heal All Wounds (and moods).

Photo above was taken at 9AM this morning...

216, only 149 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 25th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 215
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was one of those days where I was expecting a routine "One and Done" without any fanfare, or bumps in the road. Yes it was snowing. But the snow turned to rain. Yes there were small crumbly waves. So what's my point? Why would this day turn out to be anything but normal?

Well...I wish I had photographic proof. But I don't.

When I pulled up at 18th Street shortly around 12 noon I was greeted by my friend Johnny Grasso. He was stoked to see me. I think this was his first time seeing me do my thing. I'm mentioning Johnny, because he was the last person to see me before my incident. What incident you ask? I'm getting there my friends. I'm getting there.

After Johnny left, I went down the stairs and walked across the sand. I paddled out and caught my wave. I saluted, and was heading back up the sand when I saw, or rather heard, a large State Snow Plow Truck Scraping metal on asphalt. The Big Orange rig. It was heading north along where I was parked. I knew I was parked legally so I was not concerned. But he was really moving at a high rate of speed. My own paranoia got the best of me and I thought he was going to hit my vehicle.

I waited for the unmistakable sound of metal being crushed, but I did not hear it. When I got to the top of the stairs, I saw that he had actually been outside of where my vehicle was parked. I quickly loaded my board and opened the driver's side door to take my mitts and hood off and put on my gloves and Molly hat.

That's when I saw the plow turn around and come back. He was on the opposite side of the road plowing the slush when he suddenly crossed over and was now on my side of the road coming directly at me. I stood there next to my vehicle. My eyes fixated on his eyes. I watched as he got closer and closer. He finally slowed down enough to where I thought he was going to stop and say something.

I smiled when he got closer. But instead of stopping he stepped on the gas.

When he went past me he gave me a look of discontent. I was shocked. He came within one foot of where I was standing. ONE FREAKING FOOT! He had a close cropped buzz cut, slightly pudgy face, with an ear ring in his left ear. He gave me a look as if to say "You were lucky this time pal..." I wanted to chase him down and face him and give him a piece of my own mind. Then I thought about calling the police. Or calling the State DPW. Because this was a State worker. Then I calmed down.

But I could not help but think what would of happened if he hit me. I was not worried about dying. But I was worried that I would get hurt enough that I would be injured and not be able to continue my Molly Campaign. I thought about making that call to Stevie O'Hara. Why Stevie? Because Stevie volunteered that he would finish if something ever happened to me. I almost had to make that call Stevie.

Why would this guy do such a thing? Why would he risk all of that over 2" of slush?

I recently wrote a letter to the local paper saying how wonderful a job the local DPW guys have done this winter. Because they have. I pointed out the plow drivers and how hard they work. It just seems ironic that a plow driver from the state, was trying to teach me a lesson? Or whatever it was he was doing?

Bottom line. That guy was an asshole. I won't forget his face. Freaking nimrod.

That's 215, only 150 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 24th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 214
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

With all the unrest and turmoil in the world today, it seems silly to talk about my daily wave. My wave today was just like yesterday's. A small but clean right at 18th Street.
Not many people on the beach today. After catching my wave I stopped by Kevin Grondin's to skate on the pond. I am after all skating with the SURFERS in the Bruins Alumni vs the Surfers in a couple of weeks. For the MOLLY ROWLEE Fund.

It has been sometime since I was on skates. I was surprised to be able to skate.

I guess it's true about what they say..."It's like riding a bike. You never forget ."
After a few strides I was back...even moving the puck came back to me. It should be fun. Skating with all my friends.

That's 214, only 151 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 23rd, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 213
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...


66 years ago today, 5 Marines and 1 Navy Corpsman raised the colors on top of Mt Surabachi on IWO JIMA. 5 days after the Marines hit the beach. It would take another month before the Island was secure. In that time some 6,821 Marines were killed. Almost 19,000 were wounded. That was in one month.

That Flag Raising image was seared into my heart and mind as a young boy.

It basically changed my life. I didn't know who they were, or what they were, I just knew I wanted to be one
of them. For that Pulitzer Prize winning Photograph by Joe Rosenthal embodied the fighting spirit of all Americans during that time. That was 66 years ago today. All living Marines know this date. I personally knew Marines who were there. They are all gone now. Those brave young Americans who saved the world. They saved the world we live in. I won't forget them.

Molly's grandfather (Meighan's father), is a Marine. A proud Marine.

I brought this flag to the beach today in honor of those brave WWII Marines. I caught my wave and saluted Molly. Then I went back out and caught another, and I saluted the Marines who fought and died on Iwo Jima. 66 years ago today.

That's 213, only 152 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 22nd, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 212
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was a better day.
I'm sure the sun shining had something to do with it.
There was still a slight swell showing. More than enough for me to get my wave.
Rare is the day that I don't get a honk and a wave from someone I know driving by. Or for that matter, someone I don't know, but who knows what I'm doing. People walking the beach, with or without their dogs, say hello and wish me the best.

Today was like that. I had a friend drive by and wave. It warms my soul.

I was mesmerized by how clear the water was this morning. If I were the size of a GI Joe doll, and had a wetsuit and board to fit, I would of been in a dreamworld.
Instead, I could only dream about that world.

Do I really have this many wrinkles? Or is it my suit scrunching my face up?
Who cares? Today was still a better day.

I spoke with my friend Jack. He's still mourning the loss of his beloved Red. His other kitty "Yellow" is still confused. I know it's only a matter of time before things get better. Right now they both have to get through this mourning period. All of us who have pets know what it's like to lose one.

They are members of our family. We talk with them. They listen to us. They love us unconditionally. They are missed when they leave us. Mourning the loss of a beloved pet is something that all loving pet owners must endure. We all know it's coming. This pain is still worth the love and joy they bring us when they are in our lives and our homes.

I felt better after talking with Jack was a better day.

I never took a photo like this before. I mean in the dead of winter. It made me smile. I mean, the act of taking this photo. Then seeing it later. I smiled.

I caught several waves today. I saluted and walked back up the beach and said hello to Molly. I asked her to look for Jack's cat Red. That's where our pets go too.
Then I was a better day.

That's 212, only 153 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 21st, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 211
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was a sad gray day. I was already feeling sad when I woke up this morning. Why? Because for some reason I thought to myself..."What if today was the last day it snowed?" I know that sounds silly. But I was feeling melancholy about that. I was actually missing the days ahead when it would stop snowing. Is this what they mean by the Stockholm syndrome?

Then my friend Jacko called to tell me that his beloved cat "Red" passed away suddenly last night. I was stunned. Jacko and his cats are family. His two brother kittys Red and Yellow are special friends. Oh poor Red...and poor Yellow. Rest in Peace Red.
Today was a sad day.

I shot these photos today.

Even though there were waves to ride...Today was still a sad day.

I swam around and took photos on this gray snowy sad day.

This is a shot of my board as I rode my wave.

Later on I had to do a service for one of my fellow Veterans, Dave Colt WWII. He was a wonderful man. I spoke at his service and then helped a US ARMY Soldier fold the US Flag off his coffin and present it to the family. Dave was badly wounded in WWII. Today was such a sad day.

A salute for Dave today.

Molly and my board.

Today was a sad day... such a sad, snowy, gray day.

211, only 154 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 20th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 210
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

What a difference a day makes. Today I waited for the wind to die down and my patience paid off. By late afternoon the wind was down to 10mph, and there was a little swell coming in at 18th Street. And the tide and light was perfect. My only regret is, I did not bring a camera. Though I did have an eye witness.

My wife and I had a wonderful visit with Kate Rocheleau this afternoon and Kate joined me for my daily wave. Turns out Kate and I have a lot in common with both our video/media background and Veterans issues. More specifically, the Wounded Warriors and the benefits of Surfing as a spiritual therapy.

Kate's going to help us out this summer with our Wounded Warrior Hit The Beach IV event and will be working along with Ampsurf with other events this summer. She has been following my "Catch a Wave For Molly" undertaking, and today she witnessed and saw the whole routine firsthand at 18th Street.

As luck would have it, a nice little knee high wave popped up on the outer sandbar, and I was able to ride it for quite some distance. I saluted Molly, and then walked up and showed Kate Molly's name on the wall. I said my hello to Molly and then we were off. Today was a good day.

That's 210, only 155 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 19th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 209
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

10 years ago I did something that I think some people had a hard time believing at the time. It was during my first 365 Surf Marathon. My "Catch a Wave For Gus." What was it you ask? Well there was a time in February that the Northwest winds blew so hard and there was NO swell activity. And for the very first time that year I could not find a wave to surf. But then I thought about what that wind would do across open water.

I put two and two together and drove to Seabrook Harbor.

And just as I thought, directly in front of the Nuclear Power Plant... lo and behold there was a solid 1-2' wind swell. I did that again today. On this same day 66 years ago when the Marines hit the beach at Iwo Jima, I hit the beach at NUKES. My daughter Gabby was there to both video tape the action and shoot some stills.
I'll let the pics tell the story.

This is what I found at 10th Street. Completely flat. That wave is less than 2 inches. There's no way I can surf this. Photo by GABBY

Such a dilemma. What would you do? Photo by GABBY

You would head south to Seabrook. Over the river and across the bridge.
Photo by GABBY

I named this spot NUKES ten years ago when I surfed it for the first time. Clearly, it's bigger than the Atlantic side. Photo by GABBY

Me before I hit the water at NUKES. The wind was wailing! Photo by GABBY

After I caught my wave and rode it 9 feet. It took me at least 6 failed attempts before I went 9 feet. Gabby has it all on video. But I did it. I surfed in the same direction as my friends on the West Coast today. I saluted Molly and the Marines who died on the Beach at IWO JIMA 66 years ago today. Photo by GABBY

That's 209, only 156 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 18th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 208
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I had the longest ride this afternoon on the smallest wave. Dale Pariseau and his friend witnessed it all. "That wave came out of nowhere." Dale said. "Actually, I've had many days like this. Where a seemingly flat day would produce a single wave to give me what I need. I guess I've been lucky in that sense."

Lucky? Or is there something or someone with a greater power sending me waves?

I'll leave that to the experts and scholars, meanwhile I truly enjoyed another beautiful February thaw day. But like I said yesterday, I'm not being fooled by this warm weather. I have a calendar right next to me. I know what March can be like.
My mother didn't raise no fool...or did she?

That's 208, only 157 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 17th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 207
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I ran into
a friend at 18th Street this afternoon, and he said it was 55 degrees. I was surprised. I mean, it felt warm. But that seemed high. I didn't want to fall into that false sense of an early Spring. But man, it felt warm. I was secretly hoping we had turned a corner. Not that I mind the winter. I don't. But I'm getting to the stage of this undertaking where the warm days are looking good to me. OK I want warmth.

And the surf was so smooth as silk glassy...albeit it was only a foot. But if I were an Inch Man...say about 8-10" I'd be in a mini me paradise. Look at these photos I shot this afternoon. February 17, 2011.

Use your imagination. You are 8 inches tall. This set is easily 10-12 inches.

"Picture yourself on a boat in a river...." John Lennon "Lucy In the Sky."

"We're on our way back home." Paul McCartney

The lumpy sand scape. This afternoon. Photo by RALPH

I caught my wave and saluted Molly. And I left the beach feeling really good today. The warm sun in your face will do that. Life is getting better.

That's 207, only 158 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 16th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 206
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So I'm hauling the trash out last night, and as I walk past the snowbank at the end of my driveway, I put my hand on top of the mound to check to see how solid it was. It was a block of snow and ice. The light went on in my head and I went back in the garage and grabbed one of the kid's boogie boards. I climbed up on the bank and shoved off. This is the only known photo of me on a Boogie Board.

Was it fun? Of course. I did several runs before I ran into the house and had my daughter Gabby shoot a few pics. The pic does not do this any justice. I was moving along pretty good. Snow Boogie Nights!

The surf today was weak and crumbly. But I caught one wobbler of a wave and ride and was on my way. I couldn't help but notice a middle aged couple watching me from a distance . No doubt they were more than likely wondering what the hell they had just witnessed. What they saw was another "One and Done!"

That's 206, only 159 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 15th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 205
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I'm in love with our ocean. Looking at those small, but perfect waves today sealed that emotion forever. You would think, that on a cold small day like today, that I would have nothing to be excited, or happy about. But alas my friends. It is just the opposite. Those waves I watched peel off down the sandbar today, were a visual treat for for me. A post Valentine sweet tart.

Then later this afternoon, I ran my dog the entire length of the beach, North to south. And the whole way, I found myself stopping to watch the waves peel. And the best thing? It was just Patch and I the whole time. Granted, it was biting cold. But man, what a treat that was. Just Patch and I alone on the beach.

That's 205, only 160 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 14th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 204
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I've been asked by some..."What's your motivation to keep doing this day after day?" Well, it's days like today that keep me going. For it was two years ago today that Molly was admitted to Children's Hospital in Boston. It was actually the whole family who was admitted. Molly, her Mom Meighan her dad Buck and her brother Kieran. Because cancer is a family affair. Not to mention all of us back home.

Two years ago today. Valentines Day. I remember it clearly.

Happy Valentines's Day Molly . I caught a wave for every member of your family today. Today is a pink day Molly. I made this for you today.

I took the photo and then used your heart and made this special little Valentine for you. I hope you like it. Today was sooo warm too. But you know that.

Then I went over and wrote this in the sand to my Valentine, think Cory will like this? Some people walking on the beach saw me doing all these things in my wetsuit. I wonder what they were thinking?
Love is everywhere today Molly.

204, only 161 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 13th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 203
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

For those of you who read my weekly blog you know that I just wrote about almost getting killed by an elderly man who ran a red light last week. After catching my wave today, I was heading back home when I witnessed something almost as bad. No scratch that, it was worse, because it involved a young boy on a bike.

Some kid riding his bike on Ocean Blvd tried to cross over with traffic speeding along the Ocean Blvd heading North. The light was yellow and about to turn red when a vehicle sped north trying to beat the light, almost hit this young boy as he tried to cross in front of moving traffic. That's twice in less than a week, that I almost witnessed a death on the highway. Are you kidding me?

We need to slow down out there. All this running red lights and trying to beat the yellow lights is ridiculous. What's the freaking hurry? And all you Moms and Dads who are letting your kids ride their freaking bikes with snowbanks the size of the freaking ALPS, need to back up and regroup. It's not safe to ride a bike out there OK. Wait until the snow melts. People are all wound up and not thinking clearly on the roads. I know, I just witnessed two potential fatalities in less than a week.

Tell junior to get off his freaking bike and play some video games.

That's 203, only 162 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 12th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 202
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

It took two attempts today to get my wave. A minor bump in the long road. I did however discover a hole in my right hand mitt. Not good. The water flowing freely onto my right thumb did not feel good. After my surf I went and got the dog and took him for a walk on the beach.

Patch loves the beach. I shot this pic of him and then looked up and saw this...

I thought it was cool. Like a Sky
Wave. There was no one on the beach to share this with. So I'm sharing it with all of you now. Hope you like it.

202, only 163 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 11th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 201
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So I was a bit premature yesterday when I remarked about Mubarak stepping down on my 200th Day. Today however, I was getting into my wetsuit and I had the TV on when there was a commotion in the live feed of the protesters in Cairo. Turns out at that exact moment Mubarak had in fact announced that he was stepping down.

So I was a day late. It's not like I was the only one who thought that. Our own president was in the same boat. Regardless, he's gone and the rest of the whole holds a collective breath to see how this all plays out.

I did a no paddle take-off this morning at 18th Street. OK I shoved the board off and caught the 1'slop burger. I had no witnesses today. Just a few gulls and some strangers driving by. But trust me, I caught my wave and was on my way.

That's 201, only 164 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 10th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 200
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So today was day 200. Significant? Yes and no. I mean, I've got 165 days to go. I'm getting closer. And just yesterday I said to my wife that I feel the worst of the winter is now behind me. I probably should not have said that out loud. Lest any of my friends in heaven hear that. I wouldn't want them to start messing with me again.

Here's some pics from today.

OK, if you look at yesterday's blog, I posted a photo from exactly 10 years ago to the day. I've got the two fingers up indicating 200 Days. I'm standing in the exact spot as I did 10 years ago. There's more snow in this shot (including my gray hair).
Photo by GABBY

Gabby was going to shoot both Video and stills, but Hannah Vokey showed up and assisted the documentation. I love those purple prism bars. It's almost spiritual.
Photo by Hannah Vokey.

That's a hard packed snow ice bank. Photo by Hannah Vokey

Writing "200" and Molly's name in the sand with my bootie. Photo by Hannah Vokey

One of the things that I have honed to almost perfection these last 200 days is picking out the slightest ripple and being able to catch and ride it. That's what I did today. With my daughter Gabby, and friend Hannah on the beach at 18th Street, I knew I didn't want them to be cold. So I snagged the first thing that came along that I thought I could catch and ride. Photo by Hannah Vokey

The wave I caught today went on for quite some time. I almost went back out for one more. Almost...I was happy and satisfied with the one and done. It was after all one of the longest rides I've gotten here on waves that small.
Photo by Hannah Vokey

My 200th Day completed.
I was happy. Photo by Hannah Vokey

The Day Egypt's president stepped down, I stepped up to complete my 200th day. Photo by Hannah Vokey

That's 200, only 165 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 9th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 199
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I did not bring my camera today. Too bad because I did something I have not done in quite sometime. I slid across the sand this morning. Like a child would slide across the ice. I did that on the wet sand/ice. Intentionally of course. I was acting like a kid out there. I don't know if I could of captured that image with a still shot though. But tomorrow? I'm bringing my video camera. If it's icy again, I'm slip sliding my way on to YouTube.

Speaking of tomorrow. It's my 200th Day. Two hundred days. It's sort of a milestone. I mean, that leaves me with 165 days and counting. Here's a photo of me ten years ago when I reached 200 Days.

I had more hair and it looks like a few more pounds. But not as much snow as we have now. February 10, 2001. Photo by Cory Fatello

I'll be at 18th Street at 9AM tomorrow morning if an
yone wants to join me. It should be all of six to eight inches...ha!

199, only 166 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 8th, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 198
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Before I caught my wave this morning I took my pup "Patch" for a walk on the beach (Sh-h-h-h don't tell anyone, dogs are not allowed on the beach). I did however, carry a doggy waste bag (just in case). There was NO ONE on the beach.
I parked at the bath house near the intersection and walked south. It was an uneventful walk. The dog ran like crazy and he needed every burst of speed. This breed (German Short Hair Pointer) needs to run. Patch ran today.

Up at 10th Street I saw the latest Graffiti. And I have to say, it upset me.

Look this is our Wall. If you're going to paint a wave, the least you could do is to
paint it right. With all the talented Surf Artists in the area we could at least look at something nice. Not some quick hack job. Here look (below) to what I did to improve this raggedy ass peak painting.

Like I said. This is Our Wall. Paint something nice or DON'T PAINT Anything at all.

As I got closer to where my vehicle was parked, I thought what the heck, I'll walk another 100 yards North. I'm glad I did, because this is what I found written in the sand this morning.

And after seeing this I felt better. I went home and got my board and went back to 10th Street and caught a nice wave. In two days I will reach the 200 Day Mark.
I am getting closer with each passing day.

That's 198, only 167 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 7th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 197
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I guess I should of said, that I would "Surf without a FULL Wetsuit." That might eliminate the bootie comments. For the last time. I was told to wear wool socks or sneakers. So I opted for the booties. I was lucky and honored to be able to participate in this event seeing how it was all about the Special Olympics. That and the fact that they allowed me to go first was an honor.

This was and is a Fund raiser, not some kind of a contest. Photo by GABBY

So I was surprised to see that there were still waves today. It was all of thigh high. Plenty big enough for me and my quest. I ran into Hannah Vokey this morning as I walked back up the stairs at 18th Street after catching my wave and saying hello to Molly. She was looking to share a few waves with me. But I was done for the day. It would be fun to be able to surf with every one I know who surfs, at least once before this fund raiser ends.

In fact, on the last Day, I would love to have every one come out in the water with me to surf the last wave together. That would be amazing. Think of how cool that would be. To have 500 people take off on the same wave. Be something to see.

Last night I woke up in the middle of the night. It was around 1:30AM. I had the most vivid dream about my dad. I've had dreams about him before. But this was different. For on this day 11 years ago, he passed away. I love you and still miss you dad.

My late father Gus. The Island of Guam in the South Pacific WWII

That's 197, only 168 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 6th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 196
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

If there was ever a day where I would do a "One and Done", today was the day.
For those of you who have been following this journey you know that today was the day where I would surf without a wetsuit. I did this to combine my fund raising efforts for Molly and the New Hampshire Special Olympics.

I guess the hardest part of today was the waiting on the beach.

I was to kick off the whole deal at 11:55AM, but the parade ran longer than expected (I was not in the parade). I was waiting in my trunks and rash guard in the snow for at least 20 25 minutes. That's a long time in that wind and cold. Though it certainly could of been a lot colder. The good news is, I was told to wear something on my feet. They wanted me to wear wool socks or sneakers.
But I did one better.

I wore my booties. And that was key to my longevity in the water.

But before you think that I was cheating, guess again. I stayed out longer than the plungers, and even went back in after catching my wave and dove under the water. I figured if I'm going to do this I may as well do it all. So I caught my wave for Molly and then I plunged for the Special Olympics.

Here's a batch of photos to tell the story.

Before the plunge and after waiting 20 minutes. Photo By GABBY

Heading out for my wave and plunge and into the unknown. Photo By Ed O'Connell

I waded out rather than rush out. I changed my original plan on the fly. That firefighter is in a survival suit. Photo By GABBY

Another unplanned moment, sitting on my board waiting for a wave.
Photo By GABBY

I see the wave I want and go hard. Yes I'm cold in this shot. Photo By Ed O'Connell

The surf was pretty small, but I got the wave and my salute, and rode at least 15 feet. Photo By Ed O'Connell

Same wave different angle. Check the guys in their survival suits and the snow on Boars Head. This was shot by Ed's wife. Great shot Kathy! Photo By Kathy O'Connell

I went back out and dove in because I didn't think I did enough. Photo By GABBY

I'm plenty cold now... Photo By GABBY

And then I was done. A clear "One and Done- with a Plunge!". Photo By GABBY

That's 196, only 169 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...




February 5th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 195
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

My wetsuit should feel toasty and dry on Monday...because I won't be wearing it tomorrow. I'm not that concerned. Like I keep telling myself and everyone else who asks. I've had plenty of days where I've done the "One and Done". Tomorrow I will set a NEW record on how fast I can pull that off. My honest guess is under 30 seconds. In fact, I just timed it again. 30 seconds in and out. The wave I caught today took a little longer. Maybe a minute. But I have a plan for tomorrow. I'll be good to go.

At exactly 11:55AM Sunday, February 6th, 2011 directly across B Street on the main Beach (Hampton Beach, NH)...I go in first. Surfing without a wetsuit. A Wave for both Molly and the Special Olympics.

Put it this way...I won't be walking this slow.

Not sure if this means anything but, I had two dreams this week about drowning.
One while being caught inside the impact zone with no board by a macking 40 foot giant green monster wave at Mavericks. That was horrible. I could not get a good breath before it unloaded on me. It was so real and scary. I mean I have NO intentions EVER of being anywhere near the impact zone at Mavericks. Zero.

The other dream I had just last night. I dreamt that I dropped my camera in deep water and it sank. I dove in after it and went down about 20 feet. When I grabbed the camera I realized I had forgotten to take a breath. So I tried to take a breath under water. And was all water that I took in. The funny thing was, it was so peaceful and serene. The drowning sensation.

Please don't read anything into this. I bare my soul to you all each day. I share my life's experiences. And I thought these dreams had some significance and thought
why not share it with you all. But that's all it is, just a couple of ocean dreams.

That's 195, only 170 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 4th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 194
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I took the early shift this morning. I went out at 7:00AM looking for my wave. Got a busy day ahead of me. Not to mention, the next storm that is coming in tomorrow. I have to get prepped for my Sunday's Sans Wetsuit Surf Session...I guess it would be an understatement to say... "I'm getting cold feet." Ha! That's a joke.

Here's some photos from this morning.

There's Life On Planet North Beach! This is frozen salt water. Wild huh?

Before I headed out. My friend Dal Williams took the pic.

My wave and salute. Photo by Dal Williams.

Good morning Molly...

That's the top of my vehicle...that snowbank had to be 6 feet tall.

The view from the top of the snowbank. This is another first for me.

Curious to see how much snow we're getting tomorrow. Like everyone else up here,
I have run out of room to throw and or blow it. I'm forced to blow the snow back into my driveway and then blow it to a new spot. The snowbanks in my driveways are well over 6!

That's 194, only 171 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 3rd, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 193
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

What a difference a day makes. I only had to snow blow once today. I had to snow blow 3 times yesterday plus I did the Roof rake deal...not to mention how bad the surf session went for me. Just a rough day all around. But today my friends...was like a walk in the park. In fact, I actually had fun on a couple pf my waves.

My good friend and fellow photographer Ed O'Connell was there to shoot the day.

I could hear Ed laughing as I trudged through the snow (again...)

But I had it to myself (again).

The waves were small but fun.

You could get a turn or two before it mushed out.

I wonder how many salutes this makes. I mean I sometimes salute two or three times
a session. All photos by Ed O'Connell

That's 193, only 172 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 2nd, 2011
-July 26, 2011
Day 192
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Life is all about timing. Or at least it has been for me. Timing. When to make your move and when not to. For as long as I
can remember in my adult life, I've had to make some split second decisions that could of cost me some serious hurt and beyond. There were a few times for instance, when I was 19 year old Marine, when timing meant everything. You know, Life or death. When I had to zig instead of zag. Timing is everything.

For the most part, my timing has been good since I started this latest journey. I've been smart enough to know when to go out in the ocean and when not to
. For the last 191 days, my timing has been good. Today, my timing was bad.

I thought I could get out before the wind really
started to blow. Remember, the snow does not bother me (that much). It's the wind and cold. I left my house a little after 8AM after snow blowing from 7AM to 8AM. I talked with Stevie O'Hara and we both thought my best window was right then and there. Turns out my best window was exactly an hour earlier.

(Above) Things started out OK as I backed out of my driveway.

(Above) But I soon realized that the driving and visibility were not very good.

Things can change within minutes up here. Especially during a storm. And that's what happened. By the time I hung up from Stevie and drove down to the ocean the wind picked up and so didn't the sleet and ice rain. I've not really had to deal with sleet/ice rain in that capacity yet. I did this morning.

I had to park my vehicle down one of the side streets in Rye because the plows were just getting started. I also grabbed the wrong board
. Both Stevie and I thought the longboard was the ticket because at 7AM the swell was only waist to chest. Having the wrong board only compounded my problems.

(Above) Before I went last salute.

Walking in waist deep snow, with gusting NE winds pelting m
y face with ice/sleet while holding a longboard was not what I had planned for. The surf was easily
verhead and out of control. I felt like a fool. My timing and good judgment had come to an end on the most treacherous of days.

But I
paddled out and got my face whipped by a fire hose shooting sleet/ice rain and snow. I got sucked down the beach and was really having a hard time controlling my board with the wind. Longboards and wind don't mix well. Before I caught a wave I had to paddle back up the beach and out to find the right take-off spot. The tide was high at this break. But at least there was a channel. But I needed to be in the impact zone to snag one of these beasts.

Finally a solid head high mass of confusion ja
cked up in front of me and I spun Big Black around and did a no paddle take off. I saluted immediately and went all the way to the inside where the shore break was standing up and unloading on the beach. I kicked the board away at the last second and it went over the falls and I honestly thought I broke it in half. It came right up and back at me. I had a difficult time trying to get in with the shore break just exploding on the beach. My face was stinging and I had had enough. I finally felt the sand and ran up the beach.

I could not get my leash off for some reason and I was
doing all I could trying to just stay upright. I must of looked intoxicated to anyone who might of seen me. But there was no one anywhere. I struggled back up the beach to the opening walked back down to my vehicle and seeing that my earlier footsteps had been filled in with snow. I was so happy I convinced my wife not to join me. She wanted to shoot some video. I shot video of myself both in the vehicle and out. I'm sure I look crazy.

So about my timing...I guess if I had surfed at 7AM that would of been the call. Or
later today when things quiet down. But then again, they might not calm down...though a friend just called and said the wind is off shore and it looks good. DOH!

192, only 173 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


February 1st, 2011 -July 26, 2011
Day 191
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The easiest part of my day today was, believe it or not, going surfing. The blowing snow out of my driveway, the work load, and everything else, was more of a hassle.
The actual act of catching my wave was easy. I know that won't be the case tomorrow.
But then again, how much different can this new snow storm be than the other 500?

I'll tell you
, not that much...unless the snow is the wet and heavy kind...that would be a drag for sure?

Here's two photos I shot
on this first Day of February .

A self portrait in the snow. I look amused.

Here's a first ever photo. Snow on my board. I had it laying next to my vehicle for all
of 30 seconds
! Here comes the snow baby...PILE IT ON!!!

191, only 174 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...



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