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August 31st, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 37
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I feel a bit waterlogged this morning. I treaded water for 3 and a half hours. I shot some water footage today using my custom water housing. Must be because I've been watching one of my clients video projects that we've been working on. It's all Aquatic & Sports therapy, and it's called MAST. It's all done in the water. Pretty neat stuff.
Any ways, there I was treading water for almost 4 hours shooting video of my friends. Thankfully only one of them ran me over. The one I've known the longest. Kevin Grondin. Now why's he gotta be so hurtful?

The surf today from Hurricane Danielle was the biggest of the entire swell. And the entire summer so far. Big and absolutely perfect. And once again the water was ridiculously warm. I am not lying when I say it was damn near tropical. We're talking almost 70 degrees....all you readers who live outside of the region, look at your map and take note of where I am. It's New Hampshire.

Today it was tropical New Hampshire.

I paddled out after shooting almost 4 hours in the water and caught about a half a dozen waves in under 20 minutes. I guess you could say I am a tad tuckered out
. But that's what coffee is for. Am I right here my fellow caffeine freaks? Damn straight. I think I may have saluted on a couple of waves. I guess I was that stoked. Here's a photo I snapped as I was about to leave. It's my friend Markey J getting slotted.

Danielle has been fun...I hope Hurricane Earl is as nice and friendly.

37, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 30th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 36
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Oh Danielle how I love thee...let me count the ways...or is the waves? Or is it the crowd? Man it sure was congested out there today. I thought everyone went back to school? When does school start? Tomorrow? Look, I'm not complaining. I got my share of waves this morning. But there were a few incidents. I'll write about those in my weekly column. Not here and not now.

The water has been so warm. I really didn't need the shortie I was wearing today. I could of easily trunked it. Seriously. No wetsuit needed today.
I wish every summer day was like that . Although, I believe I have a summer cold. In fact, I know I do. My throat was sore yesterday and today I have all the symptoms. Sneezing, runny nose...feeling like crap. No biggie. I caught my waves saluted Lil Miss Molly and all the other Cancer victims in my life and left with the sun at my back.

Here's a couple of shots that Ed O'Connell took of me this morning.

That's 36, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 29th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 35
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Hurricanes make people do crazy things. Mostly, it's the surfers who run around trying to figure out where to go, and where to surf. Me? I don't get nearly as excited as I did when I was younger. Case in point. I did not paddle out until 6PM tonight. I was too busy writing my weekly column all day. Besides, with the Wave Cam in my face all day long, I was able to monitor the swell in actual time, and make my move accordingly. I had it down to a science tonight.

My timing was good. I got into the water slightly before 6PM and got a few waves right off the bat. This in spite of the record crowds strung out along the North Beach. And there was quite a mix of bodies out there tonight. Quite the mix.

One guy was wearing a helmet, with a face shield on. He was in a full suit, complete with boots. Now typically I wouldn't care one way or another, what someone is wearing...except the water temps had to be close to 70 degrees. And his clueless surfing buddy had NO wetsuit. Go figure. Any ways, Darth Vader (as we started to call him) kept shooting his board out from underneath himself after each wave. He would fall off the back of his board, and then kick his board away. The only problem was, he was kicking it at swimmers and other surfers paddling out.

Like I said, it was quite the mix of talent out there tonight.

And me? Well I got my waves, and called it a day. Tomorrow is another day, and the kids go back to school. And my thinking is, the surf will be better tomorrow, than it was tonight. You see, I have gotten more patient in my older years .
I'm more laid back and need to amp out and find the best waves every swell. In fact, I'd rather surf a lesser quality wave and get more waves, than deal with the masses and get slim pickings. Less quality but more quantity.

I'll see you in the morning Ms Danielle, and I look forward to meeting your brother
Earl later in the week.

35, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 28th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 34
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Paddling out this morning at 7:30AM, I couldn't help but notice the bait fish leaping out of the water coming straight at me. What's the big deal you ask? Nothing really, except the only reason those bait fish were jumping out of the water like that, is because something bigger and meaner is chasing them. My guess is maybe the Blue Fish are running.

Blue Fish can't kill you per se but they can bite.

I know a guy who lost his big toe to a Blue Fish attack years ago. Look, all the talk about Sharks this summer was amusing, but the real threat to those of us who frequent these waters here in New England is the Vicious Fishes that can bite your ass.

So I have to admit, I am still buzzing about the Wounded Warriors HIT THE BEACH III today. As I paddled for my first wave this morning I glided into a nicely lined up Left and snapped off my daily salute. And like yesterday, my salute was in part directed to the Wounded Warriors. War is hell. Cancer is Hell. And I am dealing with both every day. One of the directors of the Wounded Warriors sent me this photo this morning. And I have to say, I saw it and instantly burst into tears. What you can't see is Jerry crying. He was that touched by surfing.
I guess we are all touched by surfing.

Jerry and Ralph after Jerry's ride. August 27, 2010. Photo by Ken

I am so happy to have been part of the team that got him into and standing up on his first wave. God Speed Jerry...I hope I see you next year.

OK we have three storms lining up out there in the Atlantic. Danielle, Earl, and Fiona. Am I going to live long enough to see a damn storm named Ralph? Probably not...too bad. If we had a storm named Ralph, we would of had a decent year for Hurricanes.
Why? They go in alphabetical order.

34, I'll be back tomorrow...

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 27th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 33
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

A while ago, I remember writing in one of my weekly columns/blogs, that I was convinced, that there were more good people, doing good things, than there were bad people doing bad things. Today was one of those good people, doing good things days. It was the third annual WOUNDED WARRIORS HIT THE BEACH III event.

And what an amazing event it was.

For those of you who have witnessed this event in the past, you know exactly what I'm talking about. For those of you who don't, here's what goes down on this day. We get wounded War Veterans from the Global War On Terrorism and from other other conflicts, including Vietnam and the First Gulf War, and we take them surfing. What is truly amazing is, that some of these vets are missing limbs. Some are missing arms, some are missing legs, some are missing the feeling in their bodies from their waist down, and some are missing their souls.

But every single one of them, always leaves our day at the beach with a smile on their face. Every single one of them. Having been part of this for 3 years running, I can tell you with complete conviction, and 100% certainty, that it does not lose it's impact. Seeing a human being, whose body was ravaged by war, catch a wave, and then stand up and ride, is one of the best feelings a surfer can have. And sharing that same stoke with family members, is just as great.

With Michael and Linda Taylor hatching this idea three years ago, it has grown in both local support and with the actual participants. We even had some returning vets.
Like my buddy Nate, who was wounded in Iraq and got his right leg so badly messed up, that he can hardly bend his knee, came back. Nate tried so hard to stand up today. He did mange a second or two standing, before his bad leg gave way to the pain. But Nate was not discouraged, and he had himself a big wide grin all day long.

Another motivated vet was Jerry. He lost both hands when a booby trap exploded in his hands in Vietnam in 1967. One of his arms was missing up to his elbow. Jerry was so determined to stand up and ride, that when he finally did stand up on his last wave, there were plenty of tears of joy on the beach. Including mine. Think it's easy to surf without both your arms? Seeing it up close and personal, I can tell you it is difficult. But it is possible.

(Above) Jerry had no arms, but plenty of stoke! August 27, 2010. Photo By CORY.

(Above) Me and Jerry shaking hands after his wave. August 27, 2010. Photo By CORY.

(Above) Jeff was paralyzed from the waist down. He was charging it out there.
August 27, 2010. Photo By RALPH

(Above) Tim was a LtCol in the ARMY he commanded an Infantry unit and did three tours. Two in Iraq nd One in Afghanistan. This was his first time trying surfing.
August 27, 2010. Photo By RALPH

(Above) John was in Iraq just a short time ago, and now he's surfing.
August 27, 2010. Photo By RALPH

(Above) Peter lost his leg in Vietnam but found his stoke in Hampton.
August 27, 2010. Photo By RALPH

(Above) Wounded Warriors HIT THE BEACH III. North Beach Hampton, NH.
August 27, 2010. Photo By CORY.

There were others with legs missing who caught and rode waves kneeling on one good knee. Smiling and laughing all the way to the beach. There was Chris, a woman who was paralyzed from the waist down. She could paddle harder than anyone I know. She would actually out paddle the wave she was trying for. She caught many waves and rode on her stomach. Same with Jeff, another paraplegic. It was a never ending day of cheers and tears.

I need to thank everyone who volunteered. And there were so many. From POST 35, Flatbread, the Fire Dept, to all the shops who lent out wetsuits and surfboards. Cinnamon Rainbows, Pioneers and Summer Sessions. We need to thank Lenny Nichols and the ESA gear. And we need to thank all the volunteers who helped out in the water and out of the water. There are literally too many to name. But you all know who you are and you should know, that what you did today, will carry you far in your journey in life. You are a good person who did a good thing today.

So on behalf of all of us, we truly thank you.

I was able to catch the very first wave for Molly, where I Saluted Molly and then the Wounded Warriors. Life is good today my friends. Life is very good today.

33, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 26th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 32
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

A couple of weeks ago I had a friend say to me..."I'll give you a dollar a wave for this Catch a Wave For Molly Fundraiser..." I looked at him and said "You mean a dollar a DAY..." "No, I said a dollar a wave." He repeated. "But what if it's a good day? You'll lose your shirt." He thought about it and still insisted 'a dollar a wave.' I told him lots of people have pledged a dollar a day, but he seemed pretty set in his way. I bring this up today, because today was one of those days. No way I was doing just one wave.

I got plenty of waves today. And my friend, would of been filling the pot right now.

Today was the day, the swell finally cleaned up. The last three days of wind and rain gave way to a beautiful sunrise and morning. The waves were that emerald green
look that always reminds me of New Zealand. It was classic New England today. Just Perfect. But let the photos do the talking...

I shot a ton of footage and some st
ills check it out.

That's a pretty wave. This was shot this morning. August 26, 2010. Photo By RALPH

My longtime surfing brother, Kevin Grondin.
August 26, 2010. Photo By RALPH

chael Taylor the day before the Wounded Warriors HIT THE BEACH III hits town. August 26, 2010. Photo By RALPH

Unknown lucky SOB...August 26, 2010. Photo By RALPH

Today was a magical day. I will miss days like this this winter for sure.

32, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 25th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 31
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

One of things I'm really gonna miss in a few months is the warm water. I mean, this has been some warm water the last 3-4 days. It's also been a tad wet, as in rainy. Leave it to New Englanders to piss and moan about the weather. Wasn't everyone just complaining about the drought?

Make up your minds people. Do we need rain or not?

I took Buck's advice today and hit the land of Sunken Forest. It was way cleaner than everywhere else, except for a few unmentionables. I had the shorter board again and at first, I thought I had the wrong board, but I ended up getting every wave I paddled for. I guess the extreme workout sessions I've been putting myself through as of late have been paying off.

I know some of you will call BS on this next statement but it's true. I do between 300 to now 500 pushups, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I do 100 at a time. These push-ups have been helping my paddling power. It must be the reason why I'm able to catch more waves on the shortboard. That and the fact that I lost 20lbs.

So I got about 6 waves today. I was out probably 20 minutes.

I came home and put on the weather station. I saw that Hurricane Danielle was winding up and heading our way, and she has two other storms on her heels...or is it high heels?
Either way, the waves we are getting now are a great tune-up for what's coming. Yes my friends we are gonna have some serious surf by this weekend.Get ready kids things are going to get interesting in a few days.

Happy Birthday
Johnny Fatello

31, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 24th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 30
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Whoa. Hello...the surf got bigger. How big? Well, in my conservative estimation, it was at least 6' plus on the sets. Put it this way, nobody was out at the beachbreaks. Nobody. I stopped by CR's to pick up a set of ear plugs. I needed to replace the ones I was wearing. I've got "Surfer's Ear", and it's not going to get any better on their own.

So I need to protect what little I have left in my ears. Proper fitting plugs are a must.

The BODY GLOVE Bus was in town. I met the owner of Body Glove Ronnie Meistrell and his wife, along with Bruce Crisner my surf photographer buddy from New Jersey. I had not seen Bruce since his accident last year. Bruce lost his eye when the nose of his board hit him in the eye. If you don't think nose guards are necessary, ask Bruce what it's like to have one eye.

Protect yourselves at all times. Accidents happen when you least expect them.

The Body Glove pros were on board as well and they were in the store signing posters and getting ready to hit the surf. I already had my suit half on and was heading out. I ended up surfing that infamous lefthander that has become quite popular the last 50 years. And the reason why I surfed there was this. As I came around the bend on Ocean Blvd, I saw a HUGE empty set break out on the reef and wind it's way into the shallows. Did I say empty? Yes I did. And it was. No one out.

The waves were easily overhead and it was grinding. Granted it was messy and out of control, but damn it, there was no one out? I was all over it.
I had my SFOD again. Not a day for Big Black. This was short board material only. I did my stretches, and then I hit the water. I paddled straight out and into the impact zone. I snagged the first thing that looked like a wave. It was ugly, but it was a wave. Look, I'm not in some contest. I just need to get a wave and move on. I rode that left for about 50 yards, and then I went back out. I ended up getting 4 or 5 more, and then I came in.

Yes, I was alone the whole time.

In this day and age, when people bitch and moan about crowds ,and the soul of surfing being dead. I surfed by myself, for about an hour, at one of the best breaks on the entire East Coast. That was today, August 24th, 2010. On Day 30...that's basically the first month down in the books. Just think, only 11 more months to go.

Happy Birthday Kai Nic

30, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 23rd, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 29
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

What a difference a day makes. And what a difference some serious wind makes. The wind howled out of the Northeast all night. And it was still howling this morning. Before I checked the cams, I knew there would be waves of significance today. I also knew that 'Big Black' would be staying in the racks this morning. I would be riding my short board. The SFOD (Surf Free Or Die) Al Merrick.

And pulling up at the break this morning, I clearly made the right call.

The waves were at least head high, and it was getting meatier and bigger by the minute. I actually got a ting of excitement. Just like a week ago Monday, when we had surf. This swell looked slightly disorganized, but it had the making of a swell that would be around for a few days. I surfed further up North at an undisclosed beach/reef break. The other good news was, the
water was still warm. I mean really warm.

The overcast skies and rain squalls though called for a full suit. I wore an old 2mil Mormaii that I got from Zappy about 15 years ago. It was crusty, but it still worked. There was only one other guy out. He said his name was Sean. He was from Rye. He said he had heard about what I was doing, and was stoked to be able to share some waves with me. He was a good surfer.

My first wave was a pretty
lined up right that went on for quite a while. Sean hooted me and I was officially in the books.
I think I saluted on two of my half dozen waves.
I ended up surfing for about a half an hour and left. Jack Dewsnap and his buddies paddled out as I was leaving. Kids surfing in stormy conditions. It's great.

I kept thinking about the party for Molly yesterday. What a great day that was. I got an email this morning from Buck telling me where to surf this morning. I surfed pretty close to his suggestion. Just slightly south, where the waves were bigger and better. Thanks Buck, I love you guys. Happy Birthday Veda Day Cropper.

That's 2
9, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 22nd, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 28
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today is Molly's birthday. And today the entire Surf Community celebrated her birthday in a way that was one hand, much different than what we all did last year. If you were around back then, you know what I'm talking about. We had the Memorial Surfer's Paddle for Molly last August 22nd. That day was a heart wrenching day of mourning for all of us. But none more so than the Rowlees. Today was different.
Today was a true celebration. Today was Molly's Day. Molly's Surf Contest. Or as it became..."The Molly". And the Molly had a party atmosphere from the very start.

It was a Surf contest unlike anything I have ever witnessed before.

The brainchild of Molly's dad Buck. You entered the contest by paying a certain fee and surfed in your appropriate age and sex division. The only difference was. You had to use the board that you drew out of a hat. And let me tell you. Some of the boards were pretty damn freaky. As in the FREAK itself. However, you could trade up by paying an additional fee and get the board of your choice.

Lord knows I've seen my share of contests, but I will say with 100% certainty, that this contest was based all on fun, and the cause to help families, that have children battling cancer, was the best I've ever seen. It was in a word, fun.

And everyone was there. I mean everyone. The whole Surf community came out to share in the cause. To share in the celebration, and to show their love and support behind the Rowlees and their quest to help other families. All in the name of that sweetheart of a little girl named, Molly Rowlee.

The day's event was MC' d in part, by local comic/surfer JIMMY DUNN. And I have to say, that some of the funniest things I've ever heard on the beach, happened today. Whenever Jimmy went into his Canadian bit I thought I was going to cry from laughing so hard. And the brunt of those jokes, Team Canada, were awesome. They had such a great attitude and a solid sense of humor. What great sports.

(Above) Team Canada. What great sports they were. August 22, 2010. Photo by RALPH

(Above) Jimmy Dunn was hilarious. August 22, 2010. Photo By RALPH

The other standouts were watching GET IN THE VAN man Brian Nevins (pregnant devil), Adam Coates, (crime fighter in a diaper) Casey Lockwood (Joe Dirt look-alike), and Johnny Grasso (in his Hollywood Squares celebrity meets Love Boat Captain) in their heat was all time hilarious. I posted a few pics here for you to get a feel for what I'm talking about. Classic stuff.

(Above) It was a day we won't soon forget. August 22, 2010. Photo By RALPH

(Above) Johnny Grasso with a Lasso. August 22, 2010. Photo By RALPH

(Above) We all thought Adam broke his neck on this flip. August 22, 2010.
Photo By RALPH

The whole contest scene was run by Lenny and Arlene Nichols and Bob McNeill. They did an outstanding job running the million or so heats. It was truly amazing.
It rained later in the day, but the rain did not dampen anyone's spirits. It was like I said, a true celebration of this little girl. Little Miss Molly.

Even I got into the act at the end of the day. I waited until the very last heat went out and everyone caught
a wave then I paddled out to catch my wave for Molly. The only difference was...I had a dozen giant pink balloons tied to my wetsuit. It was a fitting end to an amazing day.

(Above) Me on the last wave...the balloons were tied to my wetsuit. August 22, 2010. Photo By CORY

Happy Birthday Molly. I hope you had fun watching all of us today. We love you. And next year we'll do it again. The Molly.

That's 2
8, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 21st, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 27
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

If there was ever a day when I could sort of fudge what I'm doing, today would be
one of those. I had to work on my weekly column all day long, and didn't get down
to the beach until 6:30PM. What I saw was not very pretty. The surf was small and crumbling.
It's what my late best friend Joe would call, "Cag". And it was all of
that. Cagging. Just a nondescript nothing of a swell. Dribble.

So I was
into the "Get One and Done" mode.

I threw on my long sleeve shortie, and pulled Big Black out of the Commander, and kept my cover on my head. Come on, when you
read "cover" ,know that I'm talking about my hat. I kept my cover on my head, and hit the beach. There were three women standing at the opening watching me. Three women who had no idea what
I was doing. The water was soooo warm. Oh my God, was it war

I waded out to my waist and waited. A small crumbling "Caggy" wave came, and I pushed off and paddled. I stood up, went about 5 yards and saluted. I looked back to determine whether or not I had actually gone 9' and decided, it was too close to call. So... I went back out.
This my friends is where I could of fudged it and claimed..."I went Nine Feet. " Who would argue with me? Who? I'll tell you who. My Mother would of slapped me across the top of my head ,and said "Get your little butt back out there and you go the whole 9 yards...uh I mean 9 feet!"

Besides, what if Molly was watching?

But honestly, I could do no wrong in Molly's eyes
. I was always Captain Ralph to Molly. Molly was one of my kids at the Surf family Robinson Party. I'm the guy who fights the pirate. I'm the guy who leads the kid to the buried treasure each year. 99% of those kids love me. Still, I went back out in case my mother was really watching. Long story short, I caught two more and went in.

Tomorrow is Molly's
Birthday Party Surf Contest Bash. Happy Birthday Molly. I'll see you tomorrow. I know you'll be wearing pink.

That's 2
7, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 20th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 26
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I wonder what people think when they see me pull up at the beach, haul my board out of my vehicle, throw on a vest, walk down the stairs, jump into the water, catch one wave, and then head back in and leave. I mean, I was literally in and out of the water today in less than 5 minutes. I was cracking up inside at some of the tourists who had no idea what I was doing. I could see them talking to each other about me. Penny for your thoughts...?

Maybe some do know. But most of the folks today, clearly had no idea.

I'm guessing they must think I've forgotten something, and need to go back and get it.
But I've forgotten nothing. I caught one wave today and saluted. It was a small, clean right, about knee high. Heck, I even wore my cover (hat) into the water today. That was a first (for this year). I knew it would be that quick.

I p
layed music last night at the free concert summer series in Hampton Falls. It's sort of a hokey, mom and pop, or a Norman Rockwell type setting. Not exactly the blues/rock club or music venue scene. I had fun. It was good to see some familiar faces. But what I did forget is, how much of a physical drain it is on my mind and body.

It's just a draining experience for me these days.

There's no way on earth I could tour with a band right now. I mean besides the fact, that I am locked here for the next year with this undertaking. I'm talking about just playing with a band every night. I could not do it. Unless there was a lot of money involved. And it would have to be significant. Because it's such a grind.

Playing music night after night? Those days are long gone, thank you.

So, I caught just one wave today. And yes, we can officially call it: ONE AND DONE.

That's 2
6, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 19th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 25
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

A local writer wanted to show up and snap some pics today. She writes for a local website. I think it's called Rye Reflections. Her name is Judy. She was waiting for me at 10th street when I pulled into my parking space.

"There's not many waves for you this morning." She says.

I looked right past her, and see thigh h
igh glassy waves. "I'll die for these waves at some point in the next year. There's more than enough for what I need." Just then, a waist high set popped up. I looked at her and winked.

I paddled out with just a vest and trunks. It was warm and sunny. I snagged about 3 waves in under 10 minutes. I gave her the salute on two waves, in case she missed the first one. I found myself wanting to hang around this morning. But I had a full plate.

It was a quick and complete session. Judy said it best..."Your mission is complete today." Yes it is Judy, yes it is...

That's 2
5, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 18th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 24
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

My youngest daughter Noelle wanted to join me today on my daily surf. Not actually join me surfing, but rather, just take the drive down with me and hang out on the beach while I did my thing. This is not the first time she's done this, and hopefully not the last. I enjoy her company. So I really don't mind making the room in my vehicle to accommodate her.

On the drive down, we passed Mike "Zappy " Paugh at Secret Spot. He was enjoying one of those tasty Burritos, He gave me the thumbs up sign. As some of you know, his wife Linda has her name on my board. Right under Molly, My Mother, and my best friend. Linda is there. I smiled and waved back at Zappy and yelled "Day 24!"

He smiled back at me.

When we showed up at the Wall, I noticed a person standing with his back to me and I instantly recognized him as an old friend who I have not seen in years. Stevie Dillon. He had just flown in from California where he's been living these past 10 years or so. It was good to see him.
He asked if he could join me out there and I was more than happy to share some waves with him. We both Longboarded. And it was great to see him surf again. He has his own style. And I remembered how easily he used to get into waves. That has not changed. He was gliding into everything that came his way.

When I got out of the Water I saw two more friends.
Josh Bellman and Jacko. It was nice chatting with them. By that time, my wife had shown up, and Noelle had decided to ride back with Mom. That's cool. Just sharing the baby of the family.

Last night as I was shutting down the computer, I got an email from yet another close friend who informed me, that his Mother had taken a turn for the worse. She's
dealing with Colon Cancer. A couple of years ago this same friend lost his brother to cancer. Cancer keeps popping up everywhere I turn..
Cancer, I hate it. I absolutely hate it.

I had saluted extra long today, on my first wave for my friend's mom and brother.

That's 24, I'll be back tom

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 17th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 23
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I got a late start today. My wife and I had to drive our son off to College Football Camp. I knew the surf was going to be good first thing this morning. And from what I've heard from everyone, it was. That's OK. I'm cool with missing the best part of the day. Seeing our son off to college, was more important than getting glassy conditions.
So I missed the glass. Still, I managed to grab a handful of waves. I saluted on my 3rd or 4h wave today, and went in.

When I got to the Wall after surfing, I ran into Kim
Grondin. She told me about a mutual friend, who's 22 year old son was just diagnosed with a serious form of Liver cancer. He's a Football player. Plays college ball. The news made me ill. But it also strengthened my resolve, as to why I'm doing this daily surfathon. Cancer, I hate it.

That's 23, I'll be back tom

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 16th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 22
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Hello. Whoa! What a difference a day makes. Not sure how many of you knew that the swell would come up today but I was clearly not in on it. But I did score some waves. Today was a preplanned go out for me and my son Max. Hard to believe that Mackey V is headed off to college tomorrow, but he is. Lil Mackey is going to be playing College Football.

And today was designated surf with dad day. It just so turns out, we had waves.

And not just waves, but a strong swell. Which brings me back to my original statement on who knew what and when. Because I did not know the surf was coming up. Don't get me wrong here people, I am not complaining. Hardly. If anything, I'm happier. Getting to surf with my son before he heads off to college was a treat.

Taking one last look at the wave cam this afternoon. I made the call. Shortboard.

I would not be riding Big Black in this stuff. It's not that it was too big, but rather it was too bumpy and bouncy. No fun riding a longboard in those conditions. No sir. But just to cover my butt. I slapped a Pink Molly Sticker on my shortboard. I was good to go.
Another surprise was, that the water temp dropped about 5 degrees. It was chilly.

I was lucky enough to catch a handful. That's all I wanted. Because, I really wanted to shoot. Whic
h I did. My wife Cory took the photos below.

Earl, Ralph and Mackey V. August 16, 2010. Photo by Cory

Ralph at the Wall 3:00PM. August 16, 2010. Photo by Cory

Last session for Mackey V at the Wall before heading off to college.
August 16, 2010. Photo by Cory

22. I'll be back tomorrow. But not with Mackey.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 15th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 21
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I have a habit of under estimating certain things in my life. For instance, I under estimated me getting enough sleep last night, to wake up early to work with my
clients this morning in my studio. I had played out with my band at a local party last night, and it takes me hours to unwind from playing a gig these days. Hours.

But, we did the session in record time. (Another under estimation).

Driving down to the ocean, this afternoon to catch my wave, I clearly under estimated the waves. The tide was high and I did not use a leash. My friends Rick Evans and Kevin Grondin were there watching at the opening. I joked saying I'd catch one and
it would be a miracle if I got my hair wet. Why did I say that? And just as I hit the water, a set hit. And I knew right then and there, I had messed up again.

It dawned on me, that I had clearly under estimated this swell.

Was it big? No. But it was pushing a lot of water around. And the rip was strong going north. I saw better waves than what I caught. And the waves I did catch, I lost my board on. And at one point, I got a nice little ding in my tail. Poor Big Black. Back back dings in a week's time. Did I feel foolish? Yes. I should of done two things. Waited until the tide dropped. And attached a leash. But I was too tired and too impatient.

So I suffered...and like the old blues song goes, "Serve You Right To Suffer..."

Still I snagged three quick waves and swam for my board on two. That's cool though.
I need to work on controlling my craft
. Besides didn't I write on my weekly column a few weeks ago about not wearing a leash? Yes I did. I need to practice what I
preach. Can I get an amen? Thank you.

21. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 14th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 20
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

It just dawned on me as I paddled out to the low tide sandbar this morning, that yesterday was Friday the 13th. Now, does that explain why I got messed up yesterday? Maybe. Maybe not. More than likely it had nothing to do with what happened. But it sure sounds like a semi good excuse to use.

" I forgot my board, on Friday the 13th!"

The waves this morning kept me out in the line-up for about a half an hour. I ran into a few familiar faces. Michael Taylor was coming in as I headed out. Tony Berardini was out SUPP'n and Mike Velstos was sitting outside in the hot morning sun. I quickly got into my first wave and went for quite a distance.

That first wave is always important to me. And I remembered how that was true 10 years ago, when I did this the first time around. I now refer to that time, as my "First Tour". And thinking back to those un-chartered days, I remember the mental hurdle about that first wave needing to be a good one.

And my first wave today, was one of those. A glide on glass. A salute and back out.

I caught a few more to soak up the morning summer sun, and my last wave was a nice long walled up left. I navigated through the inside pack and headed in. It's only Day 20 but I am getting my groove back. The first decent swell will be a true test of what I've been training for. But then again, it's not the intensity of each day, but the longevity of the overall undertaking. I need to think Tortoise and not Hare.

That's 20. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 13th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 19
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Ever do something by yourself, that was so embarrassing you would of been mortified if anyone ever found out? I could tell you things about this daily undertaking, and sort of gloss over some of the details. And if I was dishonest, I could by-pass on this next detail. But I am not. As I mentioned before, I work under the honor system. I know that those of you who know me, trust me.

So, there's no reason not to share this with you.

I started my day like I do all the others. I check the wave cams and tides, and make my move accordingly. Today would be almost a mirror of what I did yesterday. Grab the gear, load up the Commander, and head down to 10th Street. Catch one wave and get on with my day. No fuss no muss. You know, "One and done. "

Looked good on paper. And I was feeling good, as I drove off down High Street.

I was already in my shortie, and was listening to the new QWILL CD, when about a mile and half from my home, I looked over to where Big Black would be lying, and was shocked to see was not there. It's true. I had forgotten to load my board. Was I embarrassed? Hell yea. Did I hope that no one saw me? Oh yea...but I knew I wouldn't be telling the whole story today, if I did not include this. I forgot my board.

I guess I had a lot on my mind.

I found out the day before, that a dear friend of mine had passed away. "Howie." or...
C Howard Lister as he was fond of signing his name. He was a dog breeder. I bought my two dogs (GSP) from Howie. He was there on the last day, when I completed the first 365 Days of Surfing, back in July of 2001. He was a good man, and we will all miss him. Rest in Peace Howie.

The surf today was sloppy and choppy. The beach was foggy. Like my brain. I only got my legs and lower torso slightly wet. It was another ONE AND DONE. But the water was warmer than yesterday. And that's a good thing.

That's 19. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 12th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 18
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

If there had been waves today I would of trunked it. Sans wetsuit. Sans rash guard. The water was that warm. But alas my dear friends, that was not the case. It was one of those days where the surf was minimal, and the swell direction was really difficult to line up. If you actually call standing in waist deep water, and waiting for a wave, lining up. Probably not.

Looking at the cam a half hour before I decided to catch my daily wave, the conditions looked way better than what I found. It was glassy and more organized. But by the time I checked it again, (I was waiting for the right tide) everything had changed. It looked bad. I needed to suddenlly make my move quickly. So I gathered my gear and drove off. A quick glance at the conditions, and aside from a few beginners on soft tops, there was no one else around. I had the junk surf to myself. Whoopee.

I walked down the sand and waded out and waited. I saw what looked to be a mutant, sideways righthander come at me, and shoved off. I paddled, jumped up, saluted checked my distance and then stepped off my board. I then started my walk back up the sand and to my vehicle. That's when I noticed the Lifeguard running along the Wall. He was yelling something.

I couldn't hear him and motioned with my hand to my ear.

He yelled louder. "Could you please move down to the surf area at the next opening sir.." I looked at him and said "I'm moving down to my vehicle, and then moving back down to my home."

"Oh OK..." he answered. I just smiled and nodded.

He was just doing his job. And so was I. Today was what we call in the Surfathon Business, ONE AND DONE. But damn that water was warm.

That's 18. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 11th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 17
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I had more fun surfing today, then I did yesterday, and the waves were not nearly as good. Why? Well for starters, there was only one other person within yelling distance of me. And while there was a slight bump and a disorganized warble in the wave faces, I had it basically to myself. Oh and did I mention that the water temp was tolerable? Well it was. It was a pretty summer morning.

And as fun as it was...I only hung around for 3 waves.

There will be better days coming as far as the quality of the surf goes, and those days will be hard to leave. So getting 3 waves today is understandable. I'll save the longer sessions for the better days. Because, like the bad days that we all know are coming, there will be (hopefully) just as many good days.

That's 17. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 10th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 16
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

What a difference a day makes. I had an early morning meeting at 7AM and it lasted until 8:30AM. Thank God it was on the beach. Yes,I was able to see the little swell fill in with the tide this morning. So was everyone else. It seems strange at times, surfing with such a diverse group of individuals. But I'm not here to judge talent ,or lack of it. I'm here to catch a wave (or two) and then skeedaddle. That's Hillbilly for getting in and out of Dodge quickly. And I did. Except today was pretty. I ended up taking some shots with my trusty CANON D-10 Water Camera after catching my waves.

There was a minor incident out there, involving a beginner. You know the story. A clueless surfer getting in your way has been common place this summer. Honestly? I quickly overcame the bad vibes, and paddled through it.

Suffice it to say. Class was in session. RESPECT 101 by Professor Ralph.

We all surfed the incoming tide. It was clean and green...I caught about 4 waves and saluted on two of them. All in all, it was good. But if you don't believe me, check the pics. Because the photos don't lie. Unless of course, Photo Shop has been involved.
"Don't Photo Shop Me Bro!"


That's 16. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


P.S. Check Out this story in

August 9th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 15
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

There was supposed to be surf today. Or rather, significant surf as opposed to what I need. A wave that can push me all of ten feet. And while there was some surf, it was not what the experts were predicting. TS Collin became a TD and then it just sort of fizzled and fazzled. Oh well. I got my waves. All three of them in less than 10 minutes. I'd say it was borderline waist high. Thigh high for sure.

There was a significant crowd out there that's for sure. I had several strangers drop in on me and just stare at me, as I came towards them. At one point I said to one startled beginner "What part of this don't you get?" He did not answer. Instead he struggled even harder to catch the wave I was riding. He messed up my salute.

They were in a nutshell, clueless.

Another time, a woman saw me coming down the line, and she too tried desperately to catch the same wave I was on. I was calling out "Hello? Helloo?" and finally I said "Goodbye." as I waved at her as I rode on by. She had no idea what that was all about. And neither did any of her friends. Hey, I'm not complaining. Just reporting.

That's 15. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 8th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 14
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I realized today that early mornings are going to be best for me and this undertaking. Today I waited for my nephew Jesse to show up with his son Jaiden. They wanted to join me out there. That was cool. Except, they couldn't get here until midday. And midday, on a sunny summer afternoon, with the potential of surf, was more than I had bargained for. It was a log jam out there.

For starters, just trying to find a place to park was difficult.

I ended up walking a good distance. Which on the surface, does not seem like much. But carrying a longboard and a shortie, was a bit taxing. Don't forget, I'm still a little gimpy from my damaged leg the night before. My cuts had hardly anytime to heal. They were stinging all morning long. Then I find that the surfing area at the wall was being strictly enforced, along with the leash law. And, I didn't bring my leash.

So I had to borrow a leash from Lenny. That was cool though. And I was not sure how cold the water was, so I only brought a vest. Turns out it was all I needed. I met a few surfers who knew what I was doing, and they gave me some words of encouragement. Again, the reminder of how powerful the Internet truly is.

I finally found Jesse and Jaiden, and paddled out with them into the mayhem.

It was the last I saw of them, until I came in. I paddled straight out and sat next to a guy wearing a full suit and a hood. "Any waves out here?" I asked. He looked at me and said "About every half an hour a wave comes." I paddled by him saying "A half hour? I don't have time for that. I need one now." I spotted a small wave that crumbled it's way in from outside, and thought "this is for me." I swung Big Black around, and got into it rather easy. I headed for the inside gathering of beginners.
I dragged my hand, stood up and saluted, and then straightened out, before anyone could drop in on me, or crash into me.

I looked over at Lenny, who was sitting on the jetty waiting for his leash. I gave him the "One more sign" and he nodded. I paddled back out, and actually got another wave within minutes. I rode this one longer. Only this time, I was joined by a beginner at the end of the wave. He struggled to his feet, got into the big stink bug stance, and then fell straight off the back, intentionally. He hit the water with a big splash. I surfed around his half submerged body and went directly in.

That's 14...I'll be back tomorrow .

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 7th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 13
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Last night I had a dream about Molly. I was walking up a beach path on a sand dune when I spotted her. She was sitting with some other children. They were playing and talking when I saw her turn to look at me. It was Molly. And she looked to be about a year or two older. She saw me, and smiled, and then stood up and said "Captain Ralph I want to see your board." I smiled back saying "Molly my board is special. It has your name on the nose. Let me go and get it. Wait right here." And with that, I ran back down the sand path to find my board.

The dream became fuzzy after that and the next thing I knew, I was in the water with my board trying to catch a wave. And I was having such a hard time trying to get a wave to ride. The surf was small.

I ended up crashing my board onto some small rocks on the shore. Then I woke up.

I told my wife about the dream this morning. How I saw Molly. And we spoke. She was happy and said you have to tell Buck and Meg. I arrived back in Hampton at around 8:15PM tonight. I had just 15 minutes left of light. Or until "Civil Twilight. " I was pushing it. If you recall, I mentioned that I would be in Vermont this day.

I had surfed on Friday morning, and later that afternoon I drove to Vermont with my wife to see our son Max play in the Shrine Bowl the next day. We spent the night in Vermont. This morning, we saw the Shriners parade, and then the game. The game started at 2:30PM and got over at 6:00PM. It was a great game.

New Hampshire vs Vermont. New Hampshire won 34-20.

Looking at my watch, I knew I was cutting it close. We left Windsor Vermont at 6:35PM. I knew that I had enough time to catch my wave. But I was running out of daylight. I was prepared to surf at night. Seriously. I was and will be in the future if I have to. There are 24 hours in a day. Don't get me wrong, I prefer to surf during the day. But if I have to, I will surf at night.

In the Marine Corps they taught us how to utilize our night vision. It's true. You can adapt your vision to see at night . When we would run night patrols or night ambushes we used our night vision. If I could see in the jungles at night, I could certainly see a wave at night. But it's not easy.

We drove north to Rye in an attempt to deal with the higher tide and small surf . It was getting darker by the minute. By the time we got to the beach at Jeness, it was dark. My wife stayed with me as I grabbed the board and jumped in. I wore my sleeves again. Hey it was cold. A wave popped up on the outside sandbar but quickly fizzled. It was not going to be easy.

I saw the wave I wanted and went for it. I caught the wave and went right. I went my 9' and then crashed and burned into the shorebreak. The bottom was rocky and hard. And I knew I cut myself. My leg was burning as was my hand. Damn. I was not satisfied and went back out for one more. I got another saluted and then came in. Still not 100% satisfied, I went down the road a piece, and then surfed one more wave. My wife was standing in the dark waiting for me to come back out. I did. I was glad she was there. She can now see what I'm doing here. She took the photo of me above. When we got home we saw that my leg I was bleeding. It's all good.

That's 13...I'll be back tomorrow (day or night).

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 6th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 12
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I caught a right and a left this morning. They were both pretty small. But they were all I needed. I went the length of my board and then some on both waves. Funny surfing for all of 5 minutes. I saw Billy paddling this morning again and waved. He waved back. There was one other Kayaker about 300 yards off the beach. Other than that, it was just me and the Wall Walkers. The water is still chilly.

Yesterday I had a friend offer to watch me the month of October and November.

I wasn't sure what he was offering, so I asked. "Watch me what?" "You know, I'll watch you on the beach. Don't you need someone watching you everyday?" I explained to him, and to anyone else out there who does not know. I am working on the honor system here. I do not need to have verification for each day. If someone wants to watch me, that's fine. But I do not need to have another human being verifying my daily surf. I did this before. 10 years ago I surfed many days alone.

I'm a Marine. The Marine Corps Motto is "Semper Fidelis" that's latin for Always Faithful. A man is only as good as his word. You can trust me.

My first real test is coming tomorrow . My wife and I going to Vermont tonight. We are spending the night to watch our son Max play in the Shrine Bowl tomorrow afternoon. I may not be back before the sun sets. That means this will be the first "Night Surfing" of my quest. As long as I surf before midnight it counts.

10 years ago I surfed twice at night. It was not easy, nor do I recommend it to anyone, but it counted. As far as I recall, there are 24 hours in a day. And I need to catch at least One Way, Every Day. I didn't say what time in that 24 hour day...just one wave, every day for a year. Should be interesting if I surf tomorrow night.

That's 12...I'll be back tomorrow (day or night).

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 5th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 11
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was an early one for me. Actually, I've been meaning to get out there early all week long, but for one reason or another, I've not gotten out before 9AM. Today was different. I headed down at 6:45AM.

It's amazing how many "Wall Walkers" are out this time of day. And while this is not some major revelation, it was a soothing reminder of what the ocean draws to all sorts of people. I drove down the length of the wall this morning studying the faces of the individuals, couples, and small groups of walkers, and joggers who take their daily walk, or jog along the Wall each day.

Each one has a story. Maybe they are all doing their own personal quest?

Without the publicity or fanfare, they step off each morning and make that walk or jog. Who knows? They could be very well be walking or jogging as a form of therapy, to get over their own personal loss. Or maybe, I'm reading too deep into this. It could just be what it is. A daily routine to lose a few pounds and stay in shape

I waved at a few. One older gentleman who looked like he was in his 80's. He could barely walk, but he was determined. He waved back. Listening to my nephew's new CD really set the tone for the day for me. His music is so good. He calls himself QWILL these days and you've heard me mention him before on my weekly column ( But his music is like a soundtrack to my life. It's so good.

That combination of music and the ocean. It is the ultimate healing mix.

The waves have dropped since yesterday. But that is really of no concern to me. I am not in a surf contest. I just need one wave and I advance out of my heat. I paddled for the first wave and got it...that's 11 for 11 attempts. I was not satisfied with that first wave, so I got another, I saluted and went in.

It was colder today than yesterday. I wore the sleeves again. Down the beach I spotted Billy doing his morning paddle. I'm not sure he saw me. Or if he did, he probably thought I was some kook out surfing small tiny shorebreak.

At the lights I saw Stevie coming the other way. We waved. I flashed him the "11" with my fingers. He gave me the thumbs up and smiled.

That's 11...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 4th, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 10
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was a first. I put a leash on Big Black. Why? Good question. It looked bigger and more crowded, so I thought what the hell. Besides the day before I lost my board and I didn't want to hit any swimmers. Turns out, I never lost my board today.

Lots of groms out today with King Kai leading the charge. This hot young grom will turn on so many younger surfers in the community. They all flock to Kai. I've known Kai since he was a baby. Literally, a baby. He's come a long way. It's funny because if you're checking the surf and Kai takes off on a wave, it looks better than what it really is. It's very deceiving because Kai surfs like a young adult but he's just a kid.

I knew better, but still attached a leash.

So I'm happy to report, that I am now 10 for 10 in my first wave attempts. In fact, Johnny Reynolds commented on how long my first wave was. And it was long. Hell, I think I saluted twice on that first one. I got a few more and then left the Groms to themselves. I can see the problem arising when the surf gets good. It will be hard to stop. I must discipline myself to stop.

Last night I drove down to Massachusetts to see a fellow Veteran who is hospitalized with Botchulism. He can't speak and he is paralyzed from the neck down. He got it from eating canned food. It was another eye opening moment in my life. *OK people pay attention. Don't eat canned food that is dated beyond the safe date. Or, if the can is damaged. My friend is paralyzed?

The doctors say he could improve within a year...but still. Botchulism.

Took me a while to shake that image from my head. I told him I'd say a prayer for him. And through his sister interpreting his words for me, he wished me luck on my Catch A Wave For Molly Surf-a-thon. Imagine that? He was wishing me luck.

Surfing Heals all wounds...but this might be one for a higher authority.

That's 10...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 3rd, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 9
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

That wind blowing out of the southwest today was deceiving. I thought the water temps would of remained the same, but it was chillier than yesterday. Still, I paddled out with just a sleeveless vest and my trunks. I joined Michael Taylor out there. The surf was clearly ridable. I'd call it 2'. You know, thigh high.

I have been lucky with my new board Big Black. I have gotten into the first wave I paddled for each day so far. Today was Day 9 and I easily paddled into that wave. A short but long enough wave that filled my quota. I hung around and caught a few more with Michael. In the short session there was a young 10 year old brother and sister boogie boarding in the shorebreak where we were surfing.

I almost hit the boy on one wave, but I held on to avoid the collision. Remember how I'm always stressing that fact. Hold on to your board. I have yet to use a leash on my new board. And this kid and his sister were 100% clueless. No biggie. It's summer, we are all used to this. No sooner had I paddled back out, when I heard a loud "Thunk". Some other guy on a longboard hit that same kid.

The kid's mom was on the beach smoking a cigarette and totally lost it. The kid was crying, more so from the shock, than anything else. I went in and walked over to see how he was doing. At first, I think they thought I had hit him. When I pointed out that it was not me, they calmed down. I checked the kid's head, and he was fine. Although the chain smoking Mom disagreed. "He's Got an Egg!"

"Oh I don't know about that" I answered. I tried to calm everyone down.

And I pointed out the flags to them. "Yea, I know it's rough out there!" she says. "No mam those flags are the surfing area flags. This is not rough surf." She looked at me and snarled. "When you guys go back in the water, try boogie boarding a few yards down the beach." I suggested to the kids. The kids thanked me. But Momma Bear gave me a nasty look, then she took a hit off her wet cigarette, and stormed off saying, that this has "ruined her whole day."

I gave the kids another surf pointer. "When coming up out of the water after falling off your board, come to the surface with your hands in front of your faces and heads." I smiled and they smiled. Life was good again.

That's 9...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 2nd, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 8
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Ten years ago, I would of loved to have had the technology that we have today. Just the wave cams alone are a time saver. I can look at the ocean from a number of different wave cams from my studio office, and make a calculated move as to when I should hit the surf each day. 10 years ago, there were hardly any wave cams that worked properly. These days? It's easy. Or rather easier.

Today was one of those days. I saw the cams at low tide, and thought there might be something worth hanging around for. Had I not work to do, I might have. But as it turned out, the surf was at least thigh high. But it was choppy. But the sun was out, and the water was super warm. I trunked it again.

I also got a late start. Typically, I like to get down there before 9AM, catch my wave, and then get back home and put in a full day's work. It was a late one today though. 1:00PM. And, there were lots of people bobbing around in the chop. Mostly beginners.

I did spot a couple of familiar faces. Jared Velstos and Michael Taylor.

They were both interested in my board. I like showing it off. It is unique in so many ways. Just the color alone is worth a few comments. But I think the shape is what get's most surfers. There's a deep V in the tail, and on the other end, I have a wide nose. I suppose, I will at some point, be riding that nose. As I would equally expect that I will be getting a few barrels.

It's kind of exciting to think ahead, of what will or might come.

There were some unique characters out in the water today. Lots of people lying on their boards sideways. Paddling half on the board, and half off. I had one kid paddle directly in front of me as he smiled and said hello. There were others who just stared at me. Total strangers. Staring. Do they know me? Some with the proverbial trunks on over their wetsuits. Our friends from up North no doubt.

That look always cracks me up.

But I was kind. I did not show any sarcastic humor towards them. No sir, but I was laughing inside. And for all I know, they could have lost family members to cancer. I must be completely conscious of that fact. This is not about fashion. This is about cancer. My friends would of been impressed with my tolerance.

I went for my wave and went left. I rode for a good 20 yards and saluted. I had filled my daily quota. The rest was gravy. I only stayed for one more wave, then I had to leave. I spoke with Jared Velstos about how good the surf would of been had the wind switched. So if I were you guys, I'd keep an eye on it.

You just never know. That wind blows off shore, and it will be more than fun.

But for me today, on Day's just two."Two and screw."

8...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


August 1st, 2010 -July 26, 2011
Day 7
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

This day was another beautiful Summer day in New England. The sun was shining bright. The skies were blue. The ocean was smooth as glass. Except for the occasional bump. It was small. But it was warm. Yes, I trunked it again.

Jared Hay was hanging at the opening at 10th Street getting ready to teach a surf lesson. His client was decked out in a full suit. She would be regretting that. On the way out to the surf, I passed three other beginners heading out. I smiled at them. One had on a pair of trunks with a rash guard, and some 7 mil booties.

I smiled extra at him.

The summer days here in New Hampshire are mildly amusing. I waded out to my waist and waited. The other three beginners were floundering around in 6 inches of water. To hear them screaming and laughing, you would of thought there was surf. There was not. It was 6 to 10 inches...

I let a few semi bumps pass me by and then I spotted my wave. I pushed off, paddled, got up and saluted, I looked back to see if I'd gone the length of my board...I did, by a solid foot. I stepped off and walked back up the sand. A few beach goers who were paying attention, noticed my quick entry and exit. No doubt they were wondering what I was up to. I smiled again.

I realized that I have yet to get my hair wet these past 7 days. Ha...that will change soon enough. I know what's coming...

Another "One and done."
That's 7...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...


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